DALLAS: Rise, 5630 West Lovers Lane, Dallas 75209 (214 366 9900)

The empty terrace of Rise awaits the fierce souffle hunters of suburban Dallas
Rise is one of those restaurants that really shouldn’t work: It has a theme – Soufflés – (soufflé = rise, geddit?) – and it’s in one of those random, semi-upscale, low rise (ha!), mall-type neighborhoods in North Dallas – like Highland Park, but not Highland Park. It’s a restaurant trying so hard to be French that it’s practically breathing garlic and Gitanes onto the sidewalk and it has more gimmicks than a Government sponsored economic rescue plan.
And yet…the soufflé thing kind of works. The layout, décor and atmosphere of the main dining room (with an excellent bar seating area) is very cool and inviting. And the rest of the food and the wine list (including four tasting flights) are verging on the excellent. The cheese cart (I wanted to say trolley, but I just heard Vinny Jones utter the immortal English phrase “off his trolley” on US TV, so I don’t want to add confusion here) houses a particularly impressive selection of not just French, but domestic and other cheeses – all lurking in fine condition on their mobile display. Apart, that is, from one nasty concoction/aberration by the cheese ‘chef” (huh?) who puts together his own mangled combo of all the other cheeses into one sculptural mess which is introduced as the ‘special’. Hmm, special indeed…
But, as I say, the whole experience somehow comes together – and our evening was infinitely enlivened by a waitress with attitude rarely seen outside the attitude major leagues and who definitely has a future (or a past) in the Sarcasm Hall of Fame. Opening gambit to one of our number who lamely asked what was on the wine list: “Have you tried opening it up and reading it?”
Fun!
It’s a long while since I’ve sat at a whole table of media types with a free pass to waitress bait for the evening. And she won! My favorite part was her ability to repeat every order for a glass of wine with the corrected pronunciation and with the cutest and slightest turn of her upper lip and still manage not get stabbed. She is a girl absolutely at the top of her game.
When you go just ask for the French Canadian bitch with the annoying tendrils falling over her face who claims to be from Dallas – and you should be in luck. Unless there are more than one of them and it’s just part of the “Let’s be more French than the French” theme………..aaahhhh, I’m getting it, now!
Food: Oui, monsieur.
Service: L’ATTITUDE with a capital L’ATTITUDE.
Price: Worth the price admission – better value than la Cirque du Soleil.
Ambience: Cheese eating surrender monkeys. But in a good way.
Vives les Cowboys!!!